Description Raw materials of interlining. Use of Sewn & fusible interlining // advantage &disadvantage. Required properties of fusing interlining. Sequence flow chart.

Raw materials of interlining: Interlining is made of special kind of fabric. The fabric, which is used to make the interlining, is made of cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose, rayon, wool, fiber or mixture of these fibres. The fabric used to make interlining may be made of woven, knitting or non-woven fabric with special finished like flame retardant finish.

Types of interlining:

1.              Sewn interlining
2.              Fusible interlining

different types of interlining

Sewn interlining:

Sewn interlining is made of one or more than one ply of fabric by repeating stitching. It is defined as the interlining, which is attached onto the body fabric by sewing. Sometimes starching is done to increase the stiffness of the interlining. Quality of all garments would not be the same puckering, interlining, srinking may occur during interlining attaching.

sewn interlining

The quality of sewn interlining upon the following factors-

1.       Types of fiber (raw material)
2.       Fabric construction
3.  T hickness of interlining
4.       Types of finish
5.      Consistent attaching with the body fabric.

Advantages of sewn interlining:

• To make flame retardant garments
• No elaborate machine is needed.
• Possible to use in steel or re-rolling or highly heated industry
• Disadvantages of sewn interlining:
• Quality not suitable for large production
• More time consuming and production cost in high.

Use:  Sewn interlining has been using since ancient time. Making of sewn interlining and attaching to the body fabric is taken relatively much time than fusible interlining. For quality, cost and time required, the use of sewn interlining in being reduced day by day, Actually sewn interlining is used in that sector where fusible interlining is incompatible. For example in the case of manufacturing of flame retardant garment sewn interlining must be used.

Fusible interlining:

The interlining, which is being attached with the garment component by fusing, is called fusible interlining. Applying thermoplastic resin coating on the base fabric makes the interlining. Fusible interlining is now widely used for availability, cheap, less manufacturing time, easy method etc.

fusing interlining

Characteristics of fusible interlining:

1. The fusible interlining may be woven, knitted or felted, synthetic & natural or mixing of natural          and synthetic fibers.

2. Making the thin layer of thermoplastic resin on the base fabric makes this interlining.

3. The interlining is being attached by applying heat and pressure for a certain time. The controlling         parameters during fusing are as follows:

4. Temperature : Recommended fusing temperature  165-170—c

5. Time: varies 2-20 seconds.

6. Pressure: depends on the fusing technique.

Strike back:

If the melted resins pass towards the below of the base (interlining) fabric of the interlining is called strike back.

Strike through: 

Due to excessive heat and pressure the melted resin comes towards the front of the body fabric of the garment. This phenomenon is known as strike through.

Temperature, pressure and time must be controlled to get rid of the chance strike back and strike through. Strike back and strike through may be occurred due to excessive pressure and temperature. If the temperature & pressure is more than the required, the strike through is occurred. If the temperature & pressure is less the temperature & pressure, the strength of bond will be less.

Advantages of fusible interlining over sewn interlining:

1. Labor cost & processing time: In the case of fusible interlining it takes little time to attach with fabric than sewn interlining. As a result, the amount of production is large within short interval of time. So labor cost is comparatively less.

2. Valu added product :

3. Attractiveness:

4. Work aid:

5. Availability in market:

Disadvantage of fusible interlining over sewn interlining:

1. High temperature is required.
2. Special care is needed during attaching interlining. 

Required properties of fusible interlining:

o   The fusing temperature should be in the perfect range.the usual maximum temperature is 170° c and the common temperature is 150°c.

o   The resin must provide a bond, which is suitable resistant to washing and dry cleaning.

o   It should not hazard for health.

o   The color of interlining should be white and transparent in common cases.

The fusible interlining is attached with the body fabric by the following sequence:

Placement of interlining on the body fabric

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Eat and pressure application for a certain time

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Fusing of thermo-plastic resin

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Bond formation between resin and fibre

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Laminate fabric